Above: The Assy Plateau
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UralskI lived and worked in Uralsk from October 2013 to December 2014. It is far removed from Astana. It has not completely shaken off its Soviet mentality. I assume that his man was pointing at me as I was taking photographs. Shortly afterwards, I was picked up by security and taken to a building, where I was asked for my passport. His manner seemed to change when he saw from my visa that I was teaching at the Nazarbayeve Intellectual School. He told me "NO PHOTOGRAPHS" and wished me a happy New Year. I assume that the concern over photographs is linked to that fact that there are so many fake branded goods, rather than me being a threat to national security.
The man in the market reminds me very much of Donald Sutherland in the Invasion of the Body Snatchers! |
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AstanaI started working and living in Astana in August 2017. Astana is a modern city and is a very different experience to Uralsk. Frankly, it has a lot more to offer. I often go to see F.C. Astana, including wins against Celtic and Manchester United. I have become a H.C. Barys fan. Astana is more bike friendly and I cycle to and from work when there is not snow on the ground.
Astana is also a good base to travel around central Asia. Below: Barys 8 Jokerit 1 Astana 2 Manchester United 1 
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BorovoeThis has become an annual day trip to this national park. On my return from the summer break, there is a charity bike event called Burabike. The event has varied from year to year. In 2018 it was a 30km route which I find to be a nice distance. In 2019, it had been split over 2 days with a proper route on the Saturday and a very short - less than 10km route on the Sunday. I only went for the Sunday. It was really not worth the 3 hours journey there and more than three hours back due to a blow-out. The coach would not have been allowed on the road in the UK.
Some of the footage in the video below was filmed in 2017 and I can briefly be seen at 35 seconds. For my first year, I used one of their bikes on which the gears did not work without tipping the bike upside down and moving the chain between gears with my hands! For 2018 and 2019, I took my own bike. |
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Korgalzhyn Nature ReserveKorgalzhyn State Nature Reserve is a nature reserve in Akmola and Karaganda regions of Kazakhstan, located west of the city of Astana. It is part of the UNESCO heritage site Saryarka — Steppe and Lakes of Northern Kazakhstan.
I went primarily to see the flamingos. In reality, we did not get very close and they were just distant blobs. Even with a telescope, they could not be seen very clearly. However, we did see Dalmatian pelican more closely, and the bobak marmots popped their heads out of their holes. They seemed to be curious but shy. While there are pockets of them in the Ukraine and Russia, the main population is found in Northern Kazakhstan. Tulips are really not from the Netherlands! Although it is unknown who first brought the tulip to Northwestern Europe, the most widely accepted story is that it was Oghier Ghislain de Busbecq, an ambassador for Emperor Ferdinand Ito Suleyman the Magnificent. They have a very short growing season using water from the Spring snow melt to quickly flower. They then dry out and are dormant through the summer. |
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AlzhirAkmolinsk camp of wives of traitors of motherland - A memorial and museum for the wives of the political prisoners. Click here to go to the website.
In many instances, the husbands had been either executed or sent to Gulags. The wives, who were not actually charged with a crime other than being married to traitors of the motherland, were often sent to camps for women. They were separated from their children and unaware of their fate. 
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ShymkentI have now visited Shymkent twice. The first time was in October 2017. I went partly to visit my friend Horace and his family, but also to explore a different part of Kazakhstan. Shymkent was noticeably warmer than Astana and spent much of my time in a t-shirt.
I was luck to have stumbled across this game of Kokpar. I had no knowledge of the event. I just happened to stumble across it. It is a sort of equestrian rugby, played with a decapitated goat, rather than a ball. There was also Kumis Alu, where a rider needs to pick up a handkerchief, containing coins, from the ground. The difficulty seems to be keeping the horse straight while bending down one side. There was also horseback archery. For more on Kazakh equestrian sports, click here. Shymkent has the tallest statue in Kazakhstan. Baydibek Bi monument was completed in 2012. Baydibek Karashauly is considered to be responsible for the unification of the Kazakh people. Baidibek bi was a very honest and reasonable person who could resolve any dispute. Therefore, the sculpture of the great judge is depicted as a figure that stretches its arms to the sky, personifying the open character of the ancient judge and the breadth of his soul.
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TurkistanTurkistan is one of Kazakhstan's historic cities with an archaeological record dating back to the 4th century. Turkestan's most prominent historical and cultural asset is the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasavi, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
I took a Mrahrutka taxi from Shymkent, which broke down on the outskirts of the city, so I had to stop another car. This presented me with the challenge of having to find the bus station, fro the journey back. |
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AlmatyAlmaty was the capital until 1997. My first visit was on my way home from Uralsk for Christmas 2013. Yes, Almaty was on the way home! That is I had to fly 2000km in the opposite direction before taking a flight (more or less) back over Uralsk to the UK! My second visit was in September 2019 when I accompanied pupils for the International Award.
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Turgen Gorge and Assy PlateauThis was a reconnaissance trip to see if the area was suitable for Biology fieldwork.
The Turgen-Assy Observatory is situated at 2750m. We camped at around 2300m 
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Ekibastuz & The GRES-2 power stationThis was one of Chris Bentley's Lenin hunting trips with the added attractions of a massive coal mine and the world's tallest chimney.
It was good that we made this trip as it was day's before the COVID-19 lockdown that put an end to our travel plans for some time. The open cast coal mine was massive. I collected a large piece of coal to take back to Scotland. We were threatened with arrest at the GRES-2 Power station. All that we wanted to do was photograph the world's tallest chimney. I had a cold and being outside in the cold meant that I was coughing a lot. Was it COVID-19? Was I patient zero in Ekibastuz. Probably not, but I guess I will never know. 
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Torgay BalbalsBalbals are statues carved out of rock. Balbals is probably from the Turkic word for ancestor and probably memorials to the honoured dead.
First of all we clambered over some rocks a short drive away and went for a hike in search of more rocks, but without success. Then a visit to the balbals, followed by a barbecue by the river. It was fantastic to be able to travel outside of the city after lockdown and to see some wildlife including the Northern Wheatears below. 
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Ereymentau
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Blagodatoe
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Lenin hunting and the pink lake (Kobeituz)A fantastic day out with 7 colleagues. The hunt for Lenin statues was fun but seeing the pink lake was so much more exciting. I should have walked across the salt crystals in my trainers as they were painful to walk on.
Pink lakes are caused by the presence of algae that produce carotenoids, such as Dunaliella salina. 
Balykti
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Atyrau
If it had not been for the COVID-19 pandemic and the resulting lack of direct flights, I would probably never have visited Atyrau. I had less than 24 hours there but enjoyed a spot of Lenin hunting and a walk along the Ural river. I can say that I walked from Asia to Europe, back to Asia before returning to Europe!
Taraz
I visited Taraz from 28 March to 1 April 2021 during the "Nauryz" break. I went with a friend called Tommy. The people were friendly and honest to the point of a taxi driver saying that 4000 kzt was "too much! too much!" and haggling us DOWN to 2000 kzt!
Perhaps the most famous attraction is the Aisha Bibi Mausoleum. I like the story behind it but otherwise found it as a bit of a disappointment, especially as it is reconstructed.
Perhaps the most famous attraction is the Aisha Bibi Mausoleum. I like the story behind it but otherwise found it as a bit of a disappointment, especially as it is reconstructed.
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The Uspenski Cathedral was far more interesting, though I think it is far more modern that appearances would suggest. I asked for permission from two men to go up the stairs to a balcony to take some photographs. The man actually took me up, but when I continued to take photographs downstairs, the priest came over and told us (in Russian) that it was the house of god and not a museum. He then went over and reprimanded the two men. I understand his point of view, but we did try to do the right thing and ask permission first.
Click on the pictures in the gallery to enlarge.
Zhenis Park is worth a visit, partly for its eternal flame and the tanks, but it is a pleasant park to explore away form the war stuff.
Tommy had seen enough mausoleums to last him a lifetime, so I visited this one alone. Mausoleum of Tekturmas
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Taraz is a leafy city with pleasant boulevards and, as a photographer, there was plenty to keep me interested. Click on the pictures in the gallery to enlarge.
Kokshetau
It is always fun to travel with a group and there were nine of us that went to Kokshetau. The min thing going for Kokshetau is its proximity to Borovoe/Burabay.
Karaganda
I have now visited Karaganda twice. It is a great place to visit for a long weekend away from Astana.
There is the "Chaika" hotel where the cosmonauts stayed after returning to earth. The large upstairs rooms are not recommended. One, we dubbed as the "Murder Room" due to the number of stains on the carpets. There is a nice chalet in the grounds but there are better hotels in Karaganda.
Below is the Yuri Gagarin monument.
There is the "Chaika" hotel where the cosmonauts stayed after returning to earth. The large upstairs rooms are not recommended. One, we dubbed as the "Murder Room" due to the number of stains on the carpets. There is a nice chalet in the grounds but there are better hotels in Karaganda.
Below is the Yuri Gagarin monument.
Temirtau
Temirtau is where Nazarbayev worked as a metallurgist at the steel works. Temirtau is reputed to have the best Indian food in Kazakhstan, but the Indian chef only works in the evenings. The town is worth visiting as it is on the way back from Karaganda.
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Pavlodar
We had a particularly pleasant trip to Pavlodar. It was at the end of the summer holidays before the start of term and it was a holiday weekend, so we were energised. Apparently, in winter, Pavlodar is the coldest place in Kazakhstan, but in the summer, it is a wonderful place. It was new to all of us and we had lots to explore. It was not the best Lenin statue I have ever seen and somehow I could not get a good photograph of it. Being on such a large river (Irtish), gives it an almost seaside appeal and the boat trip on the river was extremely pleasant.
I took my 20-40mm and 100mm macro lenses, hence the botanical images.
I took my 20-40mm and 100mm macro lenses, hence the botanical images.
Ust-Kamenogorsk (Oskemen)
I had a long weekend so took a two night-two day trip to Ust Kamenogorsk in Eastern Kazakhstan, 1 - 3 November 2023. I chose it on the basis of the convenient times of the flights and the fact that I had not been there before. I was also thinking that if I want to do do a road trip to the Altai sometime in the future, I will not have to include Ust-Kamenogorsk in my itinerary.
In order:
1 Chapel of the New Martyrs and Confessors of Russia and Kazakhstan
2 - 3 Khalifa Altai Mosque
4 - 13 Katok Park and the Alley of Sculpures
14 Baiterek
15 - 18 UST-KAMENOGORSKY HOLY POKROVSKY PARISH
19-20 War memorial on the Strelka
21 Light bulb at Sharon restuarant
22 - 27 Holy Trinity church and St Andrew's cathedral
In order:
1 Chapel of the New Martyrs and Confessors of Russia and Kazakhstan
2 - 3 Khalifa Altai Mosque
4 - 13 Katok Park and the Alley of Sculpures
14 Baiterek
15 - 18 UST-KAMENOGORSKY HOLY POKROVSKY PARISH
19-20 War memorial on the Strelka
21 Light bulb at Sharon restuarant
22 - 27 Holy Trinity church and St Andrew's cathedral
Almaty Road TripFrom 6-9 May 2021, in the company of Mia, our guide Gulzat and our driver Kairat, I visitied the main attractions in south-eastern Kazakhstan, including horse riding, rowing and some hiking. Click on the bus to join our adventures!
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A short break in MangystauWith Astana still in full winter conditions, it was great to have a break from walking on slippery ice and enjoy some slightly warmer weather, though it still dropped down to -6°C the one night!
I think I was in need of recharging my batteries and it was great to join Rŏman Pawletta and his family along with our guide Sergey Khachatryan for a three day off-road expedition into the beautiful landscapes of Mangystau. Click on the camel to see our adventures. |
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Long weekend adventures in BayanaulMay 2023 - There is something to be said of a less well organised trip and making things up as you go along. This is.a place to return to.
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