All the places below were visited during the period of 20-23 March 2022
Aktau
I had a day in Aktau. It was a chance to visit another city and take a look at the Caspian Sea. I has a slowly developing headache all day but managed to do some exploring and, of course, take a lot of photographs.
Much of it was spent walking along the "Rock Path", in both directions. I would imagine that the route between and over the boulders would be very difficult without this very well constructed route, which correct me if I am wrong, opened in 2019.
[NOT MY VIDEO]
Much of it was spent walking along the "Rock Path", in both directions. I would imagine that the route between and over the boulders would be very difficult without this very well constructed route, which correct me if I am wrong, opened in 2019.
[NOT MY VIDEO]
One notable thing about Aktau, in addition to its closed nuclear power plant, is its unusual lighthouse. The lighthouse is placed on top of a 10-floor residential building. From the video below, it seems that you cannot quite visit the light due to a locked metal door. [NOT MY VIDEO]
I had planned to photograph the sun setting over the Caspian Sea, but as temperatures dropped, a large bank of cloud developed, so it was not to be. Maybe better luck next time?
Zhanaozan
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Zhanaozan has its place in Kazakh history:
2011 oil strike In May 2011, workers from the Ozenmunaigas oil field went on strike over pay. The strike was declared illegal by local courts and the state oil company sacked nearly 1000 employees. Some of the sacked workers then occupied the town square in protest. On 16 December 2011 police were accused of firing on them. Fifteen people (workers and police officers) were killed according to government officials, though opposition sources put the death toll in the dozens. In disturbances that day local government offices, a hotel and an office of the state oil company were set on fire, according to General Prosecutor Askhat Daulbayev. Eighty-six people were injured in the clashes – according to the authorities – and due to shortage of hospital beds in Zhanaozen, many were taken to be treated in the regional capital Aktau, about 150 km away. 2022 protests The 2022 Kazakh protests began in Zhanaozen after a sharp increase in gas prices (the Kazakh government claiming this was due to high demand and price fixes),corruption, authoritarianism, human rights violations, and police brutality. The protest soon spread to other regions of Kazakhstan, and as of Jan 8, 2022, the government has resigned and the new government has promised to change the gas prices to 50 Kazakhstani tenge for the next 6 months. Source: “Zhanaozen.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 11 Jan. 2022, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zhanaozen. |
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Kyzylkup (Tiramisu) - Coloured Mountains
I cannot find out much about this place. Much of the time, I did not really know what was coming up next; a sort of magical mystery tour. On leaving the cars, I followed the others up left. It gave great views of the colours in the chalky rocks. Sergey on the other hand, headed for a narrow ridge with his drone.
The boys in the Polish family that I was travelling with made their way across to Sergey to join him. He was clearly not expecting this. While I was struggling up soft chalk to join the ridge, they skipped their way fearlessly along the ridge. Sergey was surprised to suddenly see them next to him and I think a little alarmed. You would probably survive a fall but you could be hurt and it would be difficult to get an air ambulance out to you, I am sure.
Was it the job of the guide or the parents to keep them safe?
Needless to say, I wanted to venture along the ridge too, but I was far more hesitant and needed a bit of encouragement from Sergey. My sense of balance does not seem to be what it used to be and I did not trust the soft rock. Despite my mountaineering background, if I was to be honest, I was more than a little scared. I definitely lacked the light-footed elegance of the boys. However, I made it and posed for a few photographs. The return seemed a lot easier. It is one of those things that seems difficult, but once done, one thinks "What was all the fuss about?"
I want to go back and try to repeat the feat with a bit more finesse, hopefully with Sergey doing one of his drone videos.
On out return, we passed a rock feature that looked like a man's face. Not quite so much as the Old Grey Man of the Merrick or the face of Queen Victoria on Barra.
The boys in the Polish family that I was travelling with made their way across to Sergey to join him. He was clearly not expecting this. While I was struggling up soft chalk to join the ridge, they skipped their way fearlessly along the ridge. Sergey was surprised to suddenly see them next to him and I think a little alarmed. You would probably survive a fall but you could be hurt and it would be difficult to get an air ambulance out to you, I am sure.
Was it the job of the guide or the parents to keep them safe?
Needless to say, I wanted to venture along the ridge too, but I was far more hesitant and needed a bit of encouragement from Sergey. My sense of balance does not seem to be what it used to be and I did not trust the soft rock. Despite my mountaineering background, if I was to be honest, I was more than a little scared. I definitely lacked the light-footed elegance of the boys. However, I made it and posed for a few photographs. The return seemed a lot easier. It is one of those things that seems difficult, but once done, one thinks "What was all the fuss about?"
I want to go back and try to repeat the feat with a bit more finesse, hopefully with Sergey doing one of his drone videos.
On out return, we passed a rock feature that looked like a man's face. Not quite so much as the Old Grey Man of the Merrick or the face of Queen Victoria on Barra.
Bozjyra
This has to have been the highlight of the trip. It also included a bit of a hike to the top up quite a complex route. I am sure that there are many routes to the top, but Sergey had been there so many times before that he new the easiest way. After a few photos, Sergey sent me off on my own along the ridge toward the rock spires. As he got his drone out, I got the idea. I was reasonably OK about reaching the "end of the world" but looking through my viewfinder made be less sure. I could have gone a bit further towards the edge but I did not know if it was overhanging rock that might snap off!
Throughout the trip, Sergey was keen to establish that he is the #1 guide in Mangystau. He certainly loves what he does. His wife did not like him going out onto the "steppe", something that many of us married men can associate with. So he said to his wife "What if I can make money going out into the steppe?". He used the word steppe even though that to me means grassland rather than semi-desert. Of course, she agreed!
He is an electrical engineer by training. He has made his own heated caravan with a "tent" mounted on the top, ideal for the family of six that I was travelling with. A kitchen is build into the back of the caravan, so he probably does more than anyone to ensure the comfort of his clients.
I was delighted to find that he had a two-pin power point in his car so I could recharge my camera battery. This is particularly useful if you do not carry a spare (I was carrying one) or if you do some long exposure astrophotography or star trails, something I still really need to explore. There is a total absence of light pollution out here so this would be an amazing place to explore the possibilities. I did have one go at about 4a.m. I did not realise how much the earth rotated in 30 seconds so the stars appears as short lines. I removed the brighter ones. I should have used the astrotracer on my camera. Next time, I'll know! If I had known about the opportunity to recharge the battery in the car and had it not been so cold, I would have tried some multi-shot star trails and merged the files.
I hope to join Sergey again for a longer expedition, probably without the caravan. It is a luxury I personally do not need and it slowed us down considerably. I love my tent!
Sergey is #1!
He is an electrical engineer by training. He has made his own heated caravan with a "tent" mounted on the top, ideal for the family of six that I was travelling with. A kitchen is build into the back of the caravan, so he probably does more than anyone to ensure the comfort of his clients.
I was delighted to find that he had a two-pin power point in his car so I could recharge my camera battery. This is particularly useful if you do not carry a spare (I was carrying one) or if you do some long exposure astrophotography or star trails, something I still really need to explore. There is a total absence of light pollution out here so this would be an amazing place to explore the possibilities. I did have one go at about 4a.m. I did not realise how much the earth rotated in 30 seconds so the stars appears as short lines. I removed the brighter ones. I should have used the astrotracer on my camera. Next time, I'll know! If I had known about the opportunity to recharge the battery in the car and had it not been so cold, I would have tried some multi-shot star trails and merged the files.
I hope to join Sergey again for a longer expedition, probably without the caravan. It is a luxury I personally do not need and it slowed us down considerably. I love my tent!
Sergey is #1!
Camels, chalk arch and a cold night camping
After having lunch at a splendid spot looking out across Bozjyra, out off-road adventure continued. At times it was spitting with rain. A salt lake was on the itinerary but recent snow melt had made the going a little soft and Sergey did not want to risk it. We passed a pen containing camels (as well as other odd ones on the way), before reaching a chalk arch. This was a chance to stretch our legs before setting up camp. It was a very cold night, dropping down to -6°C. The next morning, the milk was frozen and the tomatoes were like cricket balls.
Airakty, Sherkala and Toryish - "Valley of Spheres"
There was a very hard frost in the morning. No milk for my coffee (frozen) and a big dollop of Tvorog (cottage cheese) for breakfast. I really needed a full Scottish/English breakfast, but it was not to be! On the way to Airakty, we had two punctures, both on the caravan. Airakty gave us another chance to stretch our legs and for Sergey to get out his drone.
