26-27 June 2019
The walk to the deserted village of Peanmeanach is very popular, but relatively few stay at the bothy. The start of the path is clearly marked.
I could hear what sounded like a steam train and a Belgian lady who retraced her steps back down the path confirmed that it was the "Hogwarts Express".
There must have been a good track out to Peanmeanach at one time for them to have built a bridge like this. Today, only two-wheeled vehicles could reach the bridge in the first place.
There must have been a good track out to Peanmeanach at one time for them to have built a bridge like this. Today, only two-wheeled vehicles could reach the bridge in the first place.
The walking was delightful from the start. After 5 months overseas I was not finding a large pack with wood and coal very easy, so photo stops and rests taken while talking to people were frequent. I tried talking in French to one (Belgian?) man, but Russian words kept on coming out. French was my best subject at school and I have a Grade A O-level, but now my knowledge of French has been displaced by Russian!
I had seen this view while researching the route and was looking forward to photographing it. Three memorable Corbetts: An Stac, Sgurr na Ba Glaise and Rois-Bheinn, all done from Essan about 20 years ago!
The continuation along the path to Peanmeanach involves a nice, gentle descent. The weather could not have been finer!
The inside of the bothy was clean and everything seemed to be in order. There was even a good supply of wood, much of which was to later be used by two campers down by the shoreline. Much of the wood looked like sawn-off branches rather than driftwood or fallen branches but perhaps it had been sawn off a dead tree?
Inside was an ornamental giant necklace of vertebrae, presumably from some smaller species of whale.
Inside was an ornamental giant necklace of vertebrae, presumably from some smaller species of whale.
A group of four kayakers took the right hand room with the bunks and I took the left hand room. I created a sleeping platform by pushing three benches together into a T shape giving plenty of width and length.
Although it was warm, I wanted to enjoy the full bothy experience and burnt at least half of the wood and coal that I had carried in.
Although it was warm, I wanted to enjoy the full bothy experience and burnt at least half of the wood and coal that I had carried in.
I pottered about and was really trying to find a good point from which to see the sun set. Here looking south-east across Loch Ailort towards Rois-Bheinn.
Not quite the sunset I was hoping for as the sun disappear behind a hillside. A little bit of broken cloud may have helped and perhaps I should have raced across to the other side of the bay to have obtained a better photograph?
I slept well but was up and about before five the next morning.
With a lighter pack, I was back at the car and in Mallaig at about 0900 - plenty of time to buy a ferry ticket and sort out my kit for a knoydart adventure!
Above: Looking over to Eigg and Rhum