Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh, Fraoch Bheinn and Sgurr Mhurlagain
MunrosNone
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CorbettsSgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh
Fraoch Bheinn Sgùrr Mhurlagain |
GrahamsNone
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BothiesGlenpean
Kinbreak |
Distance/AscentDay 1 13km 943m
Day 2 8km 854m Day 3 13km 711m |
Estimated TimeDay 1 6h 00min
Day 2 4h 30min Day 3 5h 15min |
NotesGreat opportunity to visit Kinbreak bothy again! There is no car park but parking on the verges and larger passing places. Many cars are left overnight due to the four bothies in the area plus people camping out, so an early start will not guarantee a good parking place.
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Start
Click to enlarge.
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A more direct approach to Sgurr Mhurlagain fron Kinbreak is possible but I generally prefer to walk along the ridges. Banner photograph: Sgurr Mhurlagain and Fraoch Bheinn from the north.
View Arkaig Corbetts in a larger map
Glenpean Bothy and Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh 21-23 July 2019
I had been extremely disappointed not to have gone away the previous weekend. The plan had been to spend the weekend at Ratagan for the Walkhighlands Summer meet. My car was in the garage after smoke had emanated from the front nearside wheel. The garage messed up and ordered the wrong parts so I wasn't going anywhere! So I was feeling particularly enthusiastic about this trip even though the weather forcast was poor.
It was also an opportunity to try out some new gear. It was my first opportunity to try out my new AKU M SUPERALP GTX boots and new Mountain Hardwear PHANTOM 30F/-1C sleeping bag.
It was also an opportunity to try out some new gear. It was my first opportunity to try out my new AKU M SUPERALP GTX boots and new Mountain Hardwear PHANTOM 30F/-1C sleeping bag.
My Aku Suiterra Inject GT still have some use left in them. The worn tread makes them less secure on steep wet grass and the uppers are not as supportive as they once were. They do leak a bit in really wet conditions. Thomas may get a bit of wear out of them and I can see myself still using them for the occasional bothy trip. They were bought in 2011.
My Mountain Equipment Annapurna was bought back in 1984 and will continue to be my first choice in winter. The new bag gives about a 40% weight saving and having a zip, is easier for an old man to get into! |
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This was the first time my son was jointing me for two years and was his first bothy trip. Having bought him a decent hardshell and new walking trousers, he was very much looking the part.
This was also my first visit to Glenpean bothy. That is why I chose it over A'Chuil. The forestry track continued further than shown on the map and there was a clear sign marking the very wet and boggy path over the last 500m.
This was also my first visit to Glenpean bothy. That is why I chose it over A'Chuil. The forestry track continued further than shown on the map and there was a clear sign marking the very wet and boggy path over the last 500m.
I was aware that a work party had been planned over the weekend so was expecting to pass volunteers on their way out and perhaps some staying on, but we did not see a soul. Thomas exclaimed "Oh dear!" at one point. I was concerned about what might have happened, but it turned out that he had simply spotted a stag!
Was I the first visitor to walk through the door, slow to adjust to the relative darkness and like Mr Magoo, try to open a door immediately to the left under the stairs, which does not exist, instead of walking on past the stairs?
We laid out our bedding to stake out our claim on the sleeping platform in the second room. Emptying his pack, I noticed that he had even packed a can of deodorant: the first time I have ever seen deodorant in a bothy!
Thomas had carried the wood, while I carried the coal. I am sure that a wood burner is more efficient but does not provide the "bothy TV", dancing flames of an open fire. Things did seem to burn almost completely and it struck me how little ash there was when cleaning it out before our departure.
Thomas has aspirations of joining the army and had World War 3 all planned out by the time we had arrived back at the car to switch to daypacks with full reservoirs of water. I did not agree with all his suggestions as to which countries would be involved or their allegiances. One thing that he did not suggest was a reason!
This was to be a day of continuous rain, varying in intensity and between falling vertically to horizontal, but continuous. I had struggled a bit for the first half of the ascent, often having to "re-catch" my breath, while Thomas made the going look effortless! However, over the last third, he began to flag. He began to ask how much further and I would respond with my best honest estimate as a percentage done. I felt that this would be more meaningful to him than metres of ascent. I also set a target time to encourage him to keep up the pace.
Thomas needs to eat more than me out on the hill and I lost count of the number of cereal bars consumed.
It was not to be a day for stitched panoramic photographs. Many do not see the point of walking without views, but I enjoy the challenge, looking at the flora, with it's rich biodiversity and the variety of textures beneath my feet.
Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh has a well defined ridge running to Druim a'Chuirn. There are a line of fence posts, but, of course, these are not marked on our 50 000 scale printed map, so I warned Thomas about following fences as they do not always take you where you want to go. At one point, Thomas got caught up in some rusting wire, which I tossed to one side as most people will be following the faint path running alongside the old fence and wall. I had taken a clockwise route as the SE ridge of Druim a'Chuirn seemed the gentler, less steep way down and, while it was steep in places, we were soon down to the "path" down to Glendessarry. I say "path" as it was more like walking down a stream bed.
The River Dessarry was raging and we talked about what it might be like to ride the rapids in a kayak.
We returned to the car, where we obtained an update to the weather forecast, ate our "lunch" in the car, added fuel and food to our large packs before taking the 3½ mile walk back to Glenpean bothy.
Thomas was looking tired and while his rucksack was almost empty, it took longer than the previous evening with full big packs. We did our best to hang out our kit to dry. I explained to Thomas that the best way to dry out clothes is to wear them - at least that is my hypothesis! Thomas had carried some dry clothes and was able to change into dry clothes. While it was very wet, it was not cold and I was happy bumbling about in my wet stuff. We were quick to get the woodburner going and to put the stove on for hot drinks and food.
Thomas' 4 season boots were soaked through and heavy, but I was enjoying the benefit of new boots with only slightly damp feet.
For me, the worst thing about wet gear is not being able to use it as a pillow. Thomas was using my camping pillow and all I could come up with was placing my first aid kit beneath my head. There was an inflatable pillow in the bothy that looked fairly clean but not clean enough for me to feel happy about resting my head on it. This meant that I did not enjoy a very good night's sleep. I need to do some research into lightweight pillows and make an investment ahead of future trips.
The River Dessarry was raging and we talked about what it might be like to ride the rapids in a kayak.
We returned to the car, where we obtained an update to the weather forecast, ate our "lunch" in the car, added fuel and food to our large packs before taking the 3½ mile walk back to Glenpean bothy.
Thomas was looking tired and while his rucksack was almost empty, it took longer than the previous evening with full big packs. We did our best to hang out our kit to dry. I explained to Thomas that the best way to dry out clothes is to wear them - at least that is my hypothesis! Thomas had carried some dry clothes and was able to change into dry clothes. While it was very wet, it was not cold and I was happy bumbling about in my wet stuff. We were quick to get the woodburner going and to put the stove on for hot drinks and food.
Thomas' 4 season boots were soaked through and heavy, but I was enjoying the benefit of new boots with only slightly damp feet.
For me, the worst thing about wet gear is not being able to use it as a pillow. Thomas was using my camping pillow and all I could come up with was placing my first aid kit beneath my head. There was an inflatable pillow in the bothy that looked fairly clean but not clean enough for me to feel happy about resting my head on it. This meant that I did not enjoy a very good night's sleep. I need to do some research into lightweight pillows and make an investment ahead of future trips.
As there was only the slightest precipitation, after clearing out our kit and removing the small amount of ash from the woodburner, we took a few photos to act as mementos of our visit. I asked Thomas if he thought that he might return one day. He said "no"....but I am not so sure! It will certainly remain a very special place for me as I shared the experience with my son. I hope that I have planted the seen of enthusiasm and it will be the first of many bothies for him!
The weather was clearing but taking a final look back at Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh, it was still covered in clag. The large, dome-shaped boulder seen in the middle of the river was completely covered in water when we had crossed the bridge the previous evening.
Thomas did not want to continue with our adventures and do a couple of more Corbetts or visit Kinbreak. While I felt a little disappointment, especially as the outlook was very good, I knew that he had done extremely well, hiking in big boots through some horrible weather. I think the hill on its own would have been fine but add the 3½ mile walk from and back to the bothy at the start and end of the day lead to slight aches and pains, along with general tiredness. Thankfully, no blisters! Just a little bit of chafing. As soon as I complete one foray into the hills, I'm planning the next and I am sure that Thomas will want to join me from time to time.
Sgurr Mhurlagain, Kinbreak Bothy and Fraoch Bheinn 14-15 August 2022
Three years had passed since our visit to visit to Glenpean bothy and our ascent of Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh and Thomas and his friend wanted to go hiking. As there was unfinished business in the Loch Arkaig area, it seemed to make sense to pick up from where we had left off.
Thomas was just short of his 14th birthday for Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh. Back then, I set the pace and waited for him when necessary. Things have changed. I am three years older and not terribly hill fit, while Thomas is bigger and stronger. I knew from the outset that I would not be able to keep up with two seventeen year olds.
The third member of our party was Thomas' friend. I will call him Hamish here to protect his identity.
The original plan for these hills was to traverse Fraoch Bheinn to Kinbreak and then take the longer route from the bothy via Druim Coire an Stagain Mhoir. However, despite the warm weather, I wanted to carry wood and coal for the full bothy experience. So the route was modified. First ascend the track to Feith a' Bhrolaich (marked on the 25 000 scale OS map only). Leave our large packs and just use a 20 litre rucksack shared between the three of us, containing waterproofs, snacks and liquid refreshments. Pop up Sgùrr Mhurlagain and back to the packs. Then carrying the big packs down the path/track to Kinbreak should be straightforward.
Then, on day 2, traverse Fraoch Bheinn back to the car.
The previous evening, I wanted to pack our backpacks together to negotiate who carried what and to make sure that everyone had what they needed. Hamish did not have his own gear so I had to provide a 50 litre rucksack, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, torch and waterproofs. The two boys (young men really) did not understand the importance of packing together and kept on disappearing into Thomas' room to play on their phones, or whatever it was that they were doing. Hamish just threw things into his rucksack, which is NOT the same as packing. I gave him two waterproofs to choose from to see which fitted best. On our return, we found that he had packed both. Hamish kept on asking me if I had a "powerpack". Thomas had the largest of the tree packs but the shape of his pack suggested that he had put a bit more thought into how things were placed and organised. We were struggling to fit everything into Hamish's pack so I took things out and repacked for him - plenty of room. It is a fairly basic climbing pack and the packing affects the overall shape and comfort of the pack. It is less forgiving than the other two packs. Once packed, Hamish was still banging on about a "power pack". Reluctantly, I got my pristine, new powerbank and gave it to him.
I had visions of him turning into Corporal Jones when the battery of his mobile phone ran out of juice:
Had I been on my own, I would have set my alarm clock for 5, but I suggested 6 a.m. They emerged from their slumber around half six. Not bad! Once in the car, looking in the rear view mirror, Hamish was already tucking into the sandwiches intended for lunch.
I had forgot about how long the road was to strathan. I noticed scract marks on the surface of the road from low clearance sporty cars. This should have warned me to slow down as I too scraped the exhaust(?) slightly dropping down from one of the numerous yumps along the road. I am not used to the extra weight of three (almost) fully grown men in the car. The suspension compresses just that little bit further.
We reached the car park in glorious sunshine. It was already hot.
A group of people with large packs were stood around chatting. I went over to chat to them to see if they were heading off or returning and where too or from. If just back from Kinbreak, what was its condition? If heading off for Kinbreak, would it be overcrowded? It was, in fact, a work party just out from Kinbreak, and I was talking to the Maintenance Officer, Alan. I was asked to check for water ingress along one of the walls - if it was to rain. [All was well and I have entered a bothy report on the MBA website]
So we set off! After a short distance, I realised that I had left my poles in the long grass at the car park and had to run back for them before catching up the boys. We passed a senior couple who had been camping up Glen Dessary and doing the Munros on the north side. They commented on what a beautiful day it was. I replied "It's too hot!"
Before reaching the bealach, we could see distant thunder and looking south, see very dark clounds over Streap and Sgùrr Thuilm. It seemed like at any moment, the Dementors would come swooping down and suck the souls out of our mouths. Then the rain arrived accompanied by bright flashes of lightning. On reaching a large rock at the bealach, we removed our packs and had a quick drink and snacks. In my own mind, I questioned the wisdom of taking Thomas and Hamish up to the top during a lighting storm, but they did not seem worried and keen to go to the top of the hill.
The thunder and lightning had passed by the time we reached the summit but it was still raining. After several recent hot days on the hills, it was actually quite refreshing and did nothing to dampen my spirits. I left my tripod a the bealach but found a reasonably stable and flat placement for my camera on one of the rocks of the summit cairn. 12 seconds to get into position: Hamish, myself and Thomas.
Retracing our steps back to the bealach and reuniting ourselves with our heavy packs was straightforward and did not take vey long. The ground had become quite squelchy and there were some boggy bits to negotiate but the track was clearer than I had expected. The gradient down to Glen Kingie was comfortable on the knees, even with wood and coal in our packs.
As with many bothies, it cam into view only when were close. I had thought about walking down the Kinbreak side of the burn in case it was difficult to cross. The water level was raised slightly, but other than Thomas losing his balance and placing a foot in the burn, it was not too difficult to cross. I tend to paddle across the burns anyway rather than risking slipping on wet rocks, which I did once resulting in a sprained ankle, even in Koflach plastic boots. That takes some doing!
As with many bothies, it cam into view only when were close. I had thought about walking down the Kinbreak side of the burn in case it was difficult to cross. The water level was raised slightly, but other than Thomas losing his balance and placing a foot in the burn, it was not too difficult to cross. I tend to paddle across the burns anyway rather than risking slipping on wet rocks, which I did once resulting in a sprained ankle, even in Koflach plastic boots. That takes some doing!
Needless to say, I was the only one who thought to fill my water bottle before entering the bothy and taking off my boots. So what did the lads do once inside? Was it put the kettle on or get the fire going? No! They tipped all their stuff over the floor, got out their sleeping bags, removed their wet trousers, got into their sleeping bags and started playing games on their phones. I suppose they were just making themselves feel at home.
We took two stoves, a small canister top stove for boiling up water for drinks and a Trangia Triangle with a gas burner for preparing food. I boiled up some water for hot drinks.
By the time we had finished our hot chocolates, looking through the Velux window, I could see that the weather had turned a lot brighter. I went outside and immediately felt the warmth of the sun. I fetched my wet socks and draped them over one of the old iron rims from old cart wheels which probably were burnt many years ago. I took some photographs of the bothy and the remains of the cottage from various angles before shouting at Thomas and Hamish to put their trousers on for a team photo. I did not want to leave it till the morning and find thick mist, which turned out to be a wise move.
We took two stoves, a small canister top stove for boiling up water for drinks and a Trangia Triangle with a gas burner for preparing food. I boiled up some water for hot drinks.
By the time we had finished our hot chocolates, looking through the Velux window, I could see that the weather had turned a lot brighter. I went outside and immediately felt the warmth of the sun. I fetched my wet socks and draped them over one of the old iron rims from old cart wheels which probably were burnt many years ago. I took some photographs of the bothy and the remains of the cottage from various angles before shouting at Thomas and Hamish to put their trousers on for a team photo. I did not want to leave it till the morning and find thick mist, which turned out to be a wise move.
Thomas found the (dry) wellies in the bothy. He did not hike in them.
Next, it was time for dinner. I wanted to involve them so I asked them to assemble the Trangia Triangle which takes a little bit of working out and is a bit fiddly. Thomas correctly assembled the three steel sheets but then placed the ring that is used to mount the burner of top rather than in the slots in the steel sheets, which would leave zero clearance for the pan. Just so you know what I am writing about:
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Hamish then attached the gas cartridge and I handed him the fire steel. I would not let him use his cigarette lighter. He struggled to produce a spark , so I showed him. The stove lit, but unfortunately, so did the canister! I could not turn it off because of the flames around the control knob. I tried pouring water on it but had little effect. Thomas very calmly said "There is a fire blanket up there". Of course, he did not reach for it. It was left to me to do the fire fighting. The fire blanket seemed to do the trick, but raising it showed that the flame was still burning. Pressing down on the fire blanket to prevent the entry of oxygen eventually smothered the flame and I was able to turn the control knob into the closed position. While giving us a scare, there was no damage done. Even the control knob was fine.
How could I ever have been so stupid to think that a seventeen year old could do anything properly. Their hands are in too much of a hurry to reach back for their phones, so everything is rushed. Thomas told me that it was my fault because I was supervising him and should have checked. That is another thing with young people. They never take responsibility for anything!
I disconnected the canister and then showed Hamish how to connect it properly, before lighting the burner and cooking the evening meal. I should have left them in their sleeping bags, playing games on their phones, where they could do no harm!
Having finished off the noodles and tuna, I mentioned the washing up. The reply ......"Later!" I am not the sort of person who likes leaving a mess lying around and if others arrive at the bothy, they will need some space. I told them that if they did not do it, then I would and their consciences were strong enough to go out to the burn (in their underpants) to clean their things. I showed them the idea of grabbing a bit of moss to clean the pan. I was looking for more than a quick rinse.
After that, they suddenly sprung back into life and put on their trousers and started walking up the northern slopes of Sgùrr Mhurlagain. What were they up to? A crafty smoke? They hadn't taken the bothy spade. Anyway, I got the bothy TV going and periodically looked through the Velux window to see what they were doing. They were sat down some way up the hill. Maybe they were just burning off some of that excess energy that seems to be wasted on the young?
They returned perhaps half an hour or so later. I was concerned that Thomas had taken up smoking. I know that his friend, Hamish smokes. I kept on clearing up the bits of paper and finding filters littering the place. I asked what they had been up to. "Oh, just trying o get a phone signal, but we couldn't get one."
I should have known!
I should have known!
The next morning, preparing breakfast went without incident. I was a bit confused why Thomas had some water in the bottom of a Tupperware container. When he brought his full size canister of shaving foam out of his backpack, I realised that for the first time after years of staying in bothies, I was about to watch a man having a shave!
This is not really a part of normal bothy culture. If not bearded, one should at least be showing a couple of day's stubble and honk a bit. Why doesn't he understand that!
This is not really a part of normal bothy culture. If not bearded, one should at least be showing a couple of day's stubble and honk a bit. Why doesn't he understand that!
Once the ablutions were over, the porridge cleaned out of our bowls and everything was packed away, we headed outside. I had previously given Fraoch Bheinn a visual reccy and considered the options. Taking the north ridge head on looked a bit rocky with a number of small crags. It may have offered some scrambling opportunities but I did not want to guide the group into difficulties, so there was following the burn up to the left or taking a grassy ramp up to the right. I was thinking in favour of the latter. They just said "OK" and started racing up the track we had come down the previous afternoon. Do they ever listen?
I let them burn off a bit of energy for a while before shouting their names and gesturing the correct direction. The lower parts of the hill were a hard slog, at least, for an old man like myself. Hamish pushed on ahead, at times almost out of view, while Thomas stayed back a bit as the visual link between us. He understands that I feel responsible for them and want to keep them in sight and within hearing range.
On gaining the ridge, I was delighted by what I saw ahead. The ridge is narrow but not difficult of scary. It drops particularly steeply on the west side or it seemed that way looking down into the mist. There were no traces of any kind of path whatsoever. This was hillwalking at its very best and how many people have actually walked this route?
It was good to get a bit of a peek of the previous day's hill Sgùrr Mhurlagain.
Approaching the summit with Gulvain (Gaor Bheinn) is rising above the clouds on the left.
Looking back down the ridge that we had just come up with (I think) Gairach protruding the clouds with the more distant Gleouraich to its left.
Some weeks ago, I had a conversation with a friend who said that he could not see the point of going up the hills in bad weather if you were not going to see anything. I mentioned the different textures beneath the feet, the botany and the occasion frog leaping out of the way of my landing foot. I also pointed out that the most magical moments are when the weather clears and the clouds tease you with glimpses of beauty like a very skillful striptease.
Left to right: Carn Mor (mostly covered in cloud), Sgurr na h-Aide, Rhum (just visible), Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh and Garbh Chioch Mhor.
On reaching the cairn, Thomas and Hamish were sat on some rocks a short distance away. Having taken a few photos of the surrounding hills wrapped in cloud and setting up the tripod, I wondered over to ask them to join me for a summit group photograph. Thomas explained that they had moved over to where they were due to the insects around the summit cairn. He was refering to the keds. I had found a few on me. I had cut one in half with my thumbnail and it was still crawling! Funny how you can be plagued with them at one spot and move 20 metres away and there doesn't seem to be any.
Thomas agreed on their behalf .... as long as I went and set everything up ready and was quick. This is the better of the two quickly taken shots before we moved away.
Thomas agreed on their behalf .... as long as I went and set everything up ready and was quick. This is the better of the two quickly taken shots before we moved away.
Some way down the ridge, there is this boulder. It was interesting to note their innate tendency to climb it. Wanting to climb is so natural and seems to be a part of human nature.
It was at this point that I got things slightly wrong. To avoid a steep bit I dropped off the west side towards Glendessary lodge, down long grass and some bracken lower down, before contouring round to a gate and then dropping down to the track. Thomas and Hamish had kept to the ridge. On returning home, my wife extracted around 40 very small larval stage ticks. When asked, both Thomas and Hamish said that they had insect bites but not ticks.
I think that maybe it was just that I took a slightly wetter route with longer vegetation for a short way and went through an area with a high population density of ticks. Ironically, I was the only one wearing gaiters.
Thomas suggested that it is down to my poor personal hygeine and the fact that I smell because I do not shave. So, for anyone worried about picking up ticks on the hills, do not forget your shaving kits!
I think that maybe it was just that I took a slightly wetter route with longer vegetation for a short way and went through an area with a high population density of ticks. Ironically, I was the only one wearing gaiters.
Thomas suggested that it is down to my poor personal hygeine and the fact that I smell because I do not shave. So, for anyone worried about picking up ticks on the hills, do not forget your shaving kits!
On returning home, I told them to place any of my kit in the roof box I keep in the garage. Needless to say, my 10 000 mAh powerbank is no longer pristine and was completely drained of power.
My phone was almost fully charged ........ because I had it turned off!
My phone was almost fully charged ........ because I had it turned off!