Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh, Fraoch Bheinn and Sgurr Mhurlagain
MunrosNone
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CorbettsSgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh
Fraoch Bheinn Sgurr Mhurlagain |
GrahamsNone
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BothiesGlenpean
Kinbreak |
Distance/AscentDay 1 13km 943m
Day 2 8km 854m Day 3 13km 711m |
Estimated TimeDay 1 6h 00min
Day 2 4h 30min Day 3 5h 15min |
NotesGreat opportunity to visit Kinbreak bothy again! There is no car park but parking on the verges and larger passing places. Many cars are left overnight due to the four bothies in the area plus people camping out, so an early start will not guarantee a good parking place.
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Start
Click to enlarge.
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A more direct approach to Sgurr Mhurlagain fron Kinbreak is possible but I generally prefer to walk along the ridges. Banner photograph: Sgurr Mhurlagain and Fraoch Bheinn from the north.
View Arkaig Corbetts in a larger map
Glenpean Bothy and Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh 21-23 July 2019
I had been extremely disappointed not to have gone away the previous weekend. The plan had been to spend the weekend at Ratagan for the Walkhighlands Summer meet. My car was in the garage after smoke had emanated from the front nearside wheel. The garage messed up and ordered the wrong parts so I wasn't going anywhere! So I was feeling particularly enthusiastic about this trip even though the weather forcast was poor.
It was also an opportunity to try out some new gear. It was my first opportunity to try out my new AKU M SUPERALP GTX boots and new Mountain Hardwear PHANTOM 30F/-1C sleeping bag.
It was also an opportunity to try out some new gear. It was my first opportunity to try out my new AKU M SUPERALP GTX boots and new Mountain Hardwear PHANTOM 30F/-1C sleeping bag.
My Aku Suiterra Inject GT still have some use left in them. The worn tread makes them less secure on steep wet grass and the uppers are not as supportive as they once were. They do leak a bit in really wet conditions. Thomas may get a bit of wear out of them and I can see myself still using them for the occasional bothy trip. They were bought in 2011.
My Mountain Equipment Annapurna was bought back in 1984 and will continue to be my first choice in winter. The new bag gives about a 40% weight saving and having a zip, is easier for an old man to get into! |
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This was the first time my son was jointing me for two years and was his first bothy trip. Having bought him a decent hardshell and new walking trousers, he was very much looking the part.
This was also my first visit to Glenpean bothy. That is why I chose it over A'Chuil. The forestry track continued further than shown on the map and there was a clear sign marking the very wet and boggy path over the last 500m.
This was also my first visit to Glenpean bothy. That is why I chose it over A'Chuil. The forestry track continued further than shown on the map and there was a clear sign marking the very wet and boggy path over the last 500m.
I was aware that a work party had been planned over the weekend so was expecting to pass volunteers on their way out and perhaps some staying on, but we did not see a soul. Thomas exclaimed "Oh dear!" at one point. I was concerned about what might have happened, but it turned out that he had simply spotted a stag!
Was I the first visitor to walk through the door, slow to adjust to the relative darkness and like Mr Magoo, try to open a door immediately to the left under the stairs, which does not exist, instead of walking on past the stairs?
We laid out our bedding to stake out our claim on the sleeping platform in the second room. Emptying his pack, I noticed that he had even packed a can of deodorant: the first time I have ever seen deodorant in a bothy!
Thomas had carried the wood, while I carried the coal. I am sure that a wood burner is more efficient but does not provide the "bothy TV", dancing flames of an open fire. Things did seem to burn almost completely and it struck me how little ash there was when cleaning it out before our departure.
Thomas has aspirations of joining the army and had World War 3 all planned out by the time we had arrived back at the car to switch to daypacks with full reservoirs of water. I did not agree with all his suggestions as to which countries would be involved or their allegiances. One thing that he did not suggest was a reason!
This was to be a day of continuous rain, varying in intensity and between falling vertically to horizontal, but continuous. I had struggled a bit for the first half of the ascent, often having to "re-catch" my breath, while Thomas made the going look effortless! However, over the last third, he began to flag. He began to ask how much further and I would respond with my best honest estimate as a percentage done. I felt that this would be more meaningful to him than metres of ascent. I also set a target time to encourage him to keep up the pace.
Thomas needs to eat more than me out on the hill and I lost count of the number of cereal bars consumed.
It was not to be a day for stitched panoramic photographs. Many do not see the point of walking without views, but I enjoy the challenge, looking at the flora, with it's rich biodiversity and the variety of textures beneath my feet.
Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh has a well defined ridge running to Druim a'Chuirn. There are a line of fence posts, but, of course, these are not marked on our 50 000 scale printed map, so I warned Thomas about following fences as they do not always take you where you want to go. At one point, Thomas got caught up in some rusting wire, which I tossed to one side as most people will be following the faint path running alongside the old fence and wall. I had taken a clockwise route as the SE ridge of Druim a'Chuirn seemed the gentler, less steep way down and, while it was steep in places, we were soon down to the "path" down to Glendessarry. I say "path" as it was more like walking down a stream bed.
The River Dessarry was raging and we talked about what it might be like to ride the rapids in a kayak.
We returned to the car, where we obtained an update to the weather forecast, ate our "lunch" in the car, added fuel and food to our large packs before taking the 3½ mile walk back to Glenpean bothy.
Thomas was looking tired and while his rucksack was almost empty, it took longer than the previous evening with full big packs. We did our best to hang out our kit to dry. I explained to Thomas that the best way to dry out clothes is to wear them - at least that is my hypothesis! Thomas had carried some dry clothes and was able to change into dry clothes. While it was very wet, it was not cold and I was happy bumbling about in my wet stuff. We were quick to get the woodburner going and to put the stove on for hot drinks and food.
Thomas' 4 season boots were soaked through and heavy, but I was enjoying the benefit of new boots with only slightly damp feet.
For me, the worst thing about wet gear is not being able to use it as a pillow. Thomas was using my camping pillow and all I could come up with was placing my first aid kit beneath my head. There was an inflatable pillow in the bothy that looked fairly clean but not clean enough for me to feel happy about resting my head on it. This meant that I did not enjoy a very good night's sleep. I need to do some research into lightweight pillows and make an investment ahead of future trips.
The River Dessarry was raging and we talked about what it might be like to ride the rapids in a kayak.
We returned to the car, where we obtained an update to the weather forecast, ate our "lunch" in the car, added fuel and food to our large packs before taking the 3½ mile walk back to Glenpean bothy.
Thomas was looking tired and while his rucksack was almost empty, it took longer than the previous evening with full big packs. We did our best to hang out our kit to dry. I explained to Thomas that the best way to dry out clothes is to wear them - at least that is my hypothesis! Thomas had carried some dry clothes and was able to change into dry clothes. While it was very wet, it was not cold and I was happy bumbling about in my wet stuff. We were quick to get the woodburner going and to put the stove on for hot drinks and food.
Thomas' 4 season boots were soaked through and heavy, but I was enjoying the benefit of new boots with only slightly damp feet.
For me, the worst thing about wet gear is not being able to use it as a pillow. Thomas was using my camping pillow and all I could come up with was placing my first aid kit beneath my head. There was an inflatable pillow in the bothy that looked fairly clean but not clean enough for me to feel happy about resting my head on it. This meant that I did not enjoy a very good night's sleep. I need to do some research into lightweight pillows and make an investment ahead of future trips.
As there was only the slightest precipitation, after clearing out our kit and removing the small amount of ash from the woodburner, we took a few photos to act as mementos of our visit. I asked Thomas if he thought that he might return one day. He said "no"....but I am not so sure! It will certainly remain a very special place for me as I shared the experience with my son. I hope that I have planted the seen of enthusiasm and it will be the first of many bothies for him!
The weather was clearing but taking a final look back at Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoigh, it was still covered in clag. The large, dome-shaped boulder seen in the middle of the river was completely covered in water when we had crossed the bridge the previous evening.
Thomas did not want to continue with our adventures and do a couple of more Corbetts or visit Kinbreak. While I felt a little disappointment, especially as the outlook was very good, I knew that he had done extremely well, hiking in big boots through some horrible weather. I think the hill on its own would have been fine but add the 3½ mile walk from and back to the bothy at the start and end of the day lead to slight aches and pains, along with general tiredness. Thankfully, no blisters! Just a little bit of chafing. As soon as I complete one foray into the hills, I'm planning the next and I am sure that Thomas will want to join me from time to time.