Above: looking toward Sgùrr nan Clach Geala, Sgur Mor, Sgùrr Mòr and Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich from the descent of An Coileachan.
MunrosAn Coileachan
Meall Gorm Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich Sgùrr Mòr Meall a' Chrasgaidh Sgùrr nan Clach Geala Sgùrr nan Each |
CorbettsNone
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BothiesNone
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Distance/Ascent50km 2524m
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Time taken16h 00mins not counting the time spent camping overnight. This is walking and biking time.
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NotesPlentiful parking at NH 3128 6255
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10-11 August 2026
I like to try and do the right thing. Sometimes when walking during the stalking season, I would phone an estate and explain my planned routes. Perhaps I could do the route in reverse or set off an hour or two later? So I phoned the Lochluichart estate. The woman at the other end of the phone said "Och well, it's best to stay off the hills altogether this time of the year". As a result, I did all of the Fannich Munros from the A835 to the north. Also, as they were not in any way accommodating, I became less inclined to phone the estates!
So this trip was partly about putting history right. I did not own a mountain bike back in 1993 and I would have walked all the way in to Fannich Lodge and then all the way back out again. While it is not a long bike ride, it would have added a lot of extra walking. I was only thirty back then though, so everything would have been easier!
So this trip was partly about putting history right. I did not own a mountain bike back in 1993 and I would have walked all the way in to Fannich Lodge and then all the way back out again. While it is not a long bike ride, it would have added a lot of extra walking. I was only thirty back then though, so everything would have been easier!
It was my intention to include five Munros. With regards to the "out and backs" of Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich and Meall a' Chrasgaidh, I was going to 'play it by ear' - see how tired I was and how late in the day it was.
I found the slight uphill cycling out to Fannich Lodge a little draining. At times, I pushed my bike. I was not helped psychologically, by two ladies catching me up on their e-bikes. They commented on how amazing their bikes were. I felt a bit envious but I cannot see myself buying one as I am not sure that I would get enough use out of them. Also, I did not feel the need to carry a lock for my 17 year old bike. I would always be worried about someone stealing an expensive e-bike.
Low down are some beautiful burns with very little colouration to the water considering the amount of peat on the slopes above. Ideally, I would have used a tripod and nd/polarising filters to create slightly lower shutter speeds and reduce the glare of the white water. However, I was already carrying enough weight.
I was carrying almost 2 litres of water but I also had a water bag to fill high up near to its source.
Low down are some beautiful burns with very little colouration to the water considering the amount of peat on the slopes above. Ideally, I would have used a tripod and nd/polarising filters to create slightly lower shutter speeds and reduce the glare of the white water. However, I was already carrying enough weight.
I was carrying almost 2 litres of water but I also had a water bag to fill high up near to its source.
The walking was initially on a good track, but it came to an end and I continued across the vegetation of the upper coire. I could see the two ladies with the e-bikes (which they had left near Fannich Lodge) making good progress up the zig-zagging stalkers path up Creag a'Choire Riabaich. As I was doing things anti-clockwise, I considered it a better strategy to head for the broad bealach north-west of An Coileachan, Dump my backpack and head up to the most easterly of the Munros, just carrying my camera. It can seem like a rest when taking a heavy rucksack of your back, even when climbing uphill!
On my way back down, I passed the two ladies. We had a pleasant little chat about bagging hills and footwear. I had decided to give myself a break from my beefier AKU boots due to the pains I had been recently experiencing in my left toes. Instead, I was wearing some lighter and better cushioned Zamberlan boots. The grip is nowhere as good and they do not have an in-step to place gaiter straps, but they were so much more comfortable and did a fantastic job of keeping out the wet while descending the peatlands back down to Fannich Lodge.
With my AKU boots, I think that a part solution is to revert back to the original insoles that are thinner, leaving a little more volume inside of the boot and being very careful to to over-tighten the laces. Thinner socks may help a bit too. The next time I am shopping for boots, I will look for a deeper toe box and softer padding in the tongue.
As I approached Sgùrr Mòr, I passed the third person of the day. I asked him if he was bagging Munros, not to compare totals, but I am always curious about such things. Different people have different Munro journeys. His tally was modest, but he added "but I did not start until I was sixty!" I didn't actually think that he was that old! He looked in such fine shape.
I had my second rucksack dump on the north ridge of Sgùrr Mòr, before heading out to Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich with just my camera and water. I ate a pork pie before heading out to the outlier. Out and back seemed almost effortless without my heavy pack.
On my way back down, I passed the two ladies. We had a pleasant little chat about bagging hills and footwear. I had decided to give myself a break from my beefier AKU boots due to the pains I had been recently experiencing in my left toes. Instead, I was wearing some lighter and better cushioned Zamberlan boots. The grip is nowhere as good and they do not have an in-step to place gaiter straps, but they were so much more comfortable and did a fantastic job of keeping out the wet while descending the peatlands back down to Fannich Lodge.
With my AKU boots, I think that a part solution is to revert back to the original insoles that are thinner, leaving a little more volume inside of the boot and being very careful to to over-tighten the laces. Thinner socks may help a bit too. The next time I am shopping for boots, I will look for a deeper toe box and softer padding in the tongue.
As I approached Sgùrr Mòr, I passed the third person of the day. I asked him if he was bagging Munros, not to compare totals, but I am always curious about such things. Different people have different Munro journeys. His tally was modest, but he added "but I did not start until I was sixty!" I didn't actually think that he was that old! He looked in such fine shape.
I had my second rucksack dump on the north ridge of Sgùrr Mòr, before heading out to Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich with just my camera and water. I ate a pork pie before heading out to the outlier. Out and back seemed almost effortless without my heavy pack.
I have taken quite a few photographs of frogs, but I think that this is my favourite to date. There are usually blades of grass in the way unless they are on a mossy patch at the edge of a pool of water. This one was bold enough to perch himself on a rock and stay there, even when the front element of the lens was only about 15-20cm away from him! What a distinguished little chap. Perhaps he thought that I had not really seen him and that staying still was his best survival strategy?
Common frogs can physically see stationary (still) objects like rocks, trees, and large obstacles, but its brain is heavily wired to filter them out as part of the background. Also frogs do not see red, and objects juzt appear dark or possibly invisible altogether. I was wearing a red fleece sweater, which is probably better than green disruptive pattern material for stalking frogs!
I came across a Wonderful camping spot on the way down the NW ridge of Sgùrr Mòr. It was next to a very small lochan that does not seem to appear on the maps. The ground looked good with a flattish pitch, as well as being in a bit of a hole, so relatively well sheltered on three sides. However, I did not want to be home too early the next day as I needed to take my youngest to his swimming lesson, so I decided to push on to the broad bealach between Carn na Criche and Sgùrr nan Clach Geala. Here there is a larger lochan with an outflow. I might hesitate to drink it as it has come from standing water rather than a sponge, but it was very useful for heating my Wayfarer macaroni cheese by boiling it in the packet. I buy these things and then buy cheap noodles. I save the more expensive camp food and then realise that they are out of date! Carrying food that is not dehydrated adds more weight to my pack, but if the weather is really bad or I feel too tired to ado anything, it can be eaten cold out of the packet. I am not a big macaroni cheese fan, but I have to say that this was particularly cheesy and I enjoyed it very much after a hard day of biking and hiking.
I always rehydrate before eating and the hot chocolate was wonderful. I always feel that there is too much in a sachet. much of it ends up stuck to the bottom of my mug, so I always only use half. I carefully folded the packet and tucked it into a rucksack side pocket for the morning.
As can be seen below, there was large rock close to the tent. Someone has placed a small end-wall to the slight ditch to the left and it appears to have been prepared for a bivouac. The air was almost still and my stove would work fine, but there was a bit more of a breeze in the morning and I really appreciated it acting as a wind break when I placed my stove on the downwind side of the boulder. It reduced the risk of my stove blowing out while taking down my tent.
I always rehydrate before eating and the hot chocolate was wonderful. I always feel that there is too much in a sachet. much of it ends up stuck to the bottom of my mug, so I always only use half. I carefully folded the packet and tucked it into a rucksack side pocket for the morning.
As can be seen below, there was large rock close to the tent. Someone has placed a small end-wall to the slight ditch to the left and it appears to have been prepared for a bivouac. The air was almost still and my stove would work fine, but there was a bit more of a breeze in the morning and I really appreciated it acting as a wind break when I placed my stove on the downwind side of the boulder. It reduced the risk of my stove blowing out while taking down my tent.
I decided that I was too tired to go out to Meall a' Chrasgaidh before bed, so I went out to do it before breakfast. With just a map, compass and water, it seemed easy after a good night's sleep and I was out and back within an hour. I finished off the sachet of hot chocolate before warming up a pouch of Wayfarer beans and sausages. I find that only the contents at the bottom heat properly but mixing them up well provides a warm enough meal. I should really remove the packet and move the contents about before placing back in the pan, but I was too busy packing away my camping gear. By the time I was packed and ready to go, the sun was illuminating the hillsides.
I set off up Sgùrr nan Clach Geala. After a good night's sleep (I got up once for a pee) and a warm breakfast, the sixth Munro of the expedition was not too hard.There is a clear path for much of the way. Such a good path is a bit of a luxury after climbing to many Corbetts and Grahams in recent times. The summit has a large but truncated trig pillar. It is the only Fannich that has one, unless you include Fionn Bheinn as one of the Fannichs.
Looking down on Sgùrr nan Each, it is a little hard to believe that it is a Munro. The prominence of the Munro Sgùrr nan Each is only 108 metres (354 feet). In the world of Corbetts and Grahams, it would just be a top. I don't think many people do the Corbett tops and Graham tops. I have completed the Munro tops, but it is not something that I consider with the Corbetts and Grahams. Maybe because it is not something really highlighted in the SMC guides, not my copies anyway.
My old knees and and the weight on my back meant that I was a bit slow heading south across to Sgùrr nan Each and I could see that there was someone catching me up. He arrived at the summit of Sgùrr nan Each shortly after me and was kind enough to take my photograph. He was Australian and had only lived in Scotland for two years and had already built up a good tally of Munros. To my sassenach ears, he sounded Scottish. He said that was down to having a Scottish father. All five people I met on these hills, were friendly and chatty. I have done nine Grahams over the school holiday period and only met one person and he was walking past Lochan na h-earba after doing the three Munros Creag Pitridh, Geal Chàrn and Beinn a'Chlachair. The Corbetts and Grahams tend to bring a greater sense of solitude, but I like to meet other walkers and hear about their chosen approach and compare experiences. WE gain knowledge by climbing the hills but we can still learn a lot from others.
I set off up Sgùrr nan Clach Geala. After a good night's sleep (I got up once for a pee) and a warm breakfast, the sixth Munro of the expedition was not too hard.There is a clear path for much of the way. Such a good path is a bit of a luxury after climbing to many Corbetts and Grahams in recent times. The summit has a large but truncated trig pillar. It is the only Fannich that has one, unless you include Fionn Bheinn as one of the Fannichs.
Looking down on Sgùrr nan Each, it is a little hard to believe that it is a Munro. The prominence of the Munro Sgùrr nan Each is only 108 metres (354 feet). In the world of Corbetts and Grahams, it would just be a top. I don't think many people do the Corbett tops and Graham tops. I have completed the Munro tops, but it is not something that I consider with the Corbetts and Grahams. Maybe because it is not something really highlighted in the SMC guides, not my copies anyway.
My old knees and and the weight on my back meant that I was a bit slow heading south across to Sgùrr nan Each and I could see that there was someone catching me up. He arrived at the summit of Sgùrr nan Each shortly after me and was kind enough to take my photograph. He was Australian and had only lived in Scotland for two years and had already built up a good tally of Munros. To my sassenach ears, he sounded Scottish. He said that was down to having a Scottish father. All five people I met on these hills, were friendly and chatty. I have done nine Grahams over the school holiday period and only met one person and he was walking past Lochan na h-earba after doing the three Munros Creag Pitridh, Geal Chàrn and Beinn a'Chlachair. The Corbetts and Grahams tend to bring a greater sense of solitude, but I like to meet other walkers and hear about their chosen approach and compare experiences. WE gain knowledge by climbing the hills but we can still learn a lot from others.
I descended the south ridge of Sgùrr nan Each to Sgùrr a'Chadha Dheirg. I could see three diggers down below and some sign of a track leading down to Fannich Lodge. My original plan had been to go over Torran Ruadh, but my plan was beginning to change, tempted by a more direct route to Fannich Lodge. As I reached the peatlands, the diggers appeared to have made a right mess with the ground very churned up. At this point, I was not sure what they were doing. Were they harvesting the peat to heat Fannich Lodge during the winter or to peat the barley in whisky production? These thoughts clearly illustrated my ignorance of the conservation schemes in Scotland. It was only when I met a young woman further down, that she explained that in fact it was a part of peatland restoration. She was expecting a visiting ornithologist and had initially thought iI might be him. She explained how they dam the ditches and water courses to create lots of lochans like in the Flow Country of Caithness. She gestured over to the far side of the boglands where the restoration process was complete. I had used a couple of these dams to avoid wet feet. Backed by a £250 million Scottish Government commitment, Peatland Action aims to restore 250,000 hectares of degraded peatlands by 2030 to fight climate change and biodiversity loss. Now I know!
When I reached the proper track, the undulations seemed a bit of a trudge and even when reaching my bike, I felt a bit drained. I ate a cereal bar before setting off on my bike and later stopped just before the the stoney track reached the tarmacked road that leads to the south side of Loch Fannich. I lay on a nice patch of short grass next to a burn. I rested my head on my rucksack and looked up at the eastern cories of An Coileachan. From my approach to the hill, it had seemed very rounded and unimpressive but the north and eastern flanks are a fine sight. As I lay there relaxing in the sun, eating my last mini pork pie and roasted cashews, a man passed on his bike and said hello. I felt like I had been caught sleeping on the job and I sprung back into action! I headed down the mostly downhill road back to the car at Lochluichart. It was about a 70 minute drive home. I arrived in plenty of time to take a shower and eat before taking my youngest son to his swimming lesson.
When I had previously done these hills, back in the early nineties, I was a single man. I was free to wander without ever having to be somewhere by a certain time. Having a family changes that. I went home when I was ready. Now I always seem to have to get home by a certain time. I'm not complaining though. I am lucky to have a family, but a part of me still longs for those 3-4 week trips to the Highlands, totally free and not return home until I wanted to.
Sgùrr nan Each marked the half-way point of my second round, not that I am saying that I am going to do them all for a second compleation. I am definitely not bothering with the tops this time anyway!
When I reached the proper track, the undulations seemed a bit of a trudge and even when reaching my bike, I felt a bit drained. I ate a cereal bar before setting off on my bike and later stopped just before the the stoney track reached the tarmacked road that leads to the south side of Loch Fannich. I lay on a nice patch of short grass next to a burn. I rested my head on my rucksack and looked up at the eastern cories of An Coileachan. From my approach to the hill, it had seemed very rounded and unimpressive but the north and eastern flanks are a fine sight. As I lay there relaxing in the sun, eating my last mini pork pie and roasted cashews, a man passed on his bike and said hello. I felt like I had been caught sleeping on the job and I sprung back into action! I headed down the mostly downhill road back to the car at Lochluichart. It was about a 70 minute drive home. I arrived in plenty of time to take a shower and eat before taking my youngest son to his swimming lesson.
When I had previously done these hills, back in the early nineties, I was a single man. I was free to wander without ever having to be somewhere by a certain time. Having a family changes that. I went home when I was ready. Now I always seem to have to get home by a certain time. I'm not complaining though. I am lucky to have a family, but a part of me still longs for those 3-4 week trips to the Highlands, totally free and not return home until I wanted to.
Sgùrr nan Each marked the half-way point of my second round, not that I am saying that I am going to do them all for a second compleation. I am definitely not bothering with the tops this time anyway!
