Banner: Looking east down lochan na h-earba
GrahamsBinnein Shuas & Binnein Shios
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Distance/Ascent27km approximately 912m
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Estimated time8h 00 mins
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27 July 2026
Following on from my ascent of Creag Liath, I headed out to Lochan na h-earba to camp for two nights.
I felt that I should go and camp at Lochan na h-Earba while I still can. There are plans in place for the Earba Storage Project, and they are currently drilling as part of the feasibility studies. There were pick-ups and machinery bearing the "Natural Power" logo. There is nothing natural about altering such a beautiful Scottish landscape, flooding the vegetation, releasing methane and destroying the heathland ecosystem. It was approved by the SNP, who do not seem concerned about destroying what, to my personal taste, makes Scotland the most beautiful country in the world. I am really hoping that this does not go ahead! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earba_Storage_Project
I arrived at around 2200 and pitched the tent in poor light. The nights were drawing in and I had forgot to bring a torch! There was just enough of a breeze to see off the midges, though this soon dropped resulting in a very still night. The photograph below was taken the next morning. I had picked up a "breakfast sandwich" the previous evening - before I found the transport cafe in Newtonmore - so I had them for breakfast. I also brought with me both porridge, and a packet of beans and sausage, but these remained unused and were carried back out. I sat on the nearby bridge to enjoy my sandwich and Korean filter coffee. I find that I can find somewhere flat and dry to sit on the bridges and they are a bit more open to the wind so that I am less bothered by the midges.
It was a fine morning and I set off at around 0800. The track down the side of the loch is gently undulating. I passed a geordie who was on a bike-packing trip. There is a bridge across the burn close to where it enters the north-east lochan, but I headed down a track that led to a small dam that I could use to cross the burn. This made the route a little shorter. It is a short rise to the saddle and the ascent of of Binnein Shuas begins gently enough until reaching the crags and following a steep rake through the crags. Periodically, I would look back and try to make a mental photograph of the features so that I could retrace my steps on the way back down. It did NOT work! If this was a Munro, there would be a clear path!
The route passes beneath overhanging rock where I found some harebells (Campanula rotundifolia). These are called bluebells in Scotland. In England, bluebells refers to Hyacinthoides non-scripta. There were some orange lichens on the rock behind them and I angled my camera to try and add a splash of colour to the backdrop. That's why we use latin based binomial nomenclature! Otherwise, we find ourselves talking about different things.
I took a photograph looking out east towards Creag Dhu. The photograph gives the impression of looking out of the opening of a cave, but it was just a grassy gully up between the crags.
Reaching the summit ridge there a a few fans summits until a small summit cairn is reached.
It looked like rain was heading my way, so I did not stop to attempt any summit selfies or eat anything. I almost immediately did a U-turn and headed back. I wanted to head down while the route of ascent was still fresh in my memory. I had a hand held GPS to help, but I took a slightly different line. Initially the difference was small, but finding the route of greatest ease meant the intended and actual routes diverged. I was aware of this and I knew where I wanted to be but the crags prevented me from getting there without going back up and trying a different line. Rather than using my knowledge of my uphill route, I was heading down a way where I did not really know what lay ahead. Would I reach a point where I felt it would be unsafe to continue and then have to retrace my steps? I could see the upper slopes leading up from the saddle over to my left and it seemed that continuing as I was would not involve much in the way of reascent to regain my intended route.
Never at any time did I feel in danger, but there was much uncertainty as to whether I would find a way all the way down. I sometimes moved to a prominent position where I could gain a better view of the terrain below. It was slow going and required some care. I did not want any boulders to slip or roll, resulting in a broken leg. The route of ascent definitely would have been easier, but I got down safely and, with a bit of contouring, was able to regain the route on my GPS.
It reflects life itself in that one slight deviation from one's intended path can result in a totally different course.
Never at any time did I feel in danger, but there was much uncertainty as to whether I would find a way all the way down. I sometimes moved to a prominent position where I could gain a better view of the terrain below. It was slow going and required some care. I did not want any boulders to slip or roll, resulting in a broken leg. The route of ascent definitely would have been easier, but I got down safely and, with a bit of contouring, was able to regain the route on my GPS.
It reflects life itself in that one slight deviation from one's intended path can result in a totally different course.
The ascent of Binnein Shios is straightforward. There is even a bit of a path in places.
Age has caught up with me and whenever I felt a bit breathless, I took a break.
Again, there were a series of false summits before reaching the true top where there are two small cairns a short distance apart from each other. After a cereal bar, I set up my camera on the ground. I had to position it carefully so that the lens was not blocked by vegetation. PI placed it on a 12 second delay before running into position and then trying to look natural and relaxed. I repeated this several times from various angles. I am very satisfied with the best one.
I ran out of water on the way up. It is a disadvantage of hydration bladders, that one is less aware of how much water remains. It was only three-quarters full when I left home and I had done Creag Liath the previous day. I should have refilled it with the water I had in the car, but I set off without doing so.
I knew where I could collect water on the way back. I was not planning to collect water at the dam as the water came from the lochan. Five minutes down the track, there is a bridge over a burn. The water was clear and refreshing. I partly filled my hydration bladder along with a separate 2L water bag as this seemed like a better source than that available near to my tent.
The weather was deteriorating and I became increasingly wet as I cycled down the track passing a "Natural Power" pick-up along the way. Strangely, I could not see anyone, just the vehicle. On reaching the western end of the loch, I briefly chatted to a walker. I would have identified his age as being older than myself, perhaps approaching seventy, yet he had a good strong stride. He had just done the three Munros, commenting on how the last one, Beinn a'Chlachair had been a bit challenging. He did not elaborate on that, but I assume that he meant in terms of both navigation and distance. He was clutching a map in his hand and I took him to be an old school map and compass walker. I always carry a map and compass, but they spend most of the time in my backpack. Of course, that was not always the case.
Age has caught up with me and whenever I felt a bit breathless, I took a break.
Again, there were a series of false summits before reaching the true top where there are two small cairns a short distance apart from each other. After a cereal bar, I set up my camera on the ground. I had to position it carefully so that the lens was not blocked by vegetation. PI placed it on a 12 second delay before running into position and then trying to look natural and relaxed. I repeated this several times from various angles. I am very satisfied with the best one.
I ran out of water on the way up. It is a disadvantage of hydration bladders, that one is less aware of how much water remains. It was only three-quarters full when I left home and I had done Creag Liath the previous day. I should have refilled it with the water I had in the car, but I set off without doing so.
I knew where I could collect water on the way back. I was not planning to collect water at the dam as the water came from the lochan. Five minutes down the track, there is a bridge over a burn. The water was clear and refreshing. I partly filled my hydration bladder along with a separate 2L water bag as this seemed like a better source than that available near to my tent.
The weather was deteriorating and I became increasingly wet as I cycled down the track passing a "Natural Power" pick-up along the way. Strangely, I could not see anyone, just the vehicle. On reaching the western end of the loch, I briefly chatted to a walker. I would have identified his age as being older than myself, perhaps approaching seventy, yet he had a good strong stride. He had just done the three Munros, commenting on how the last one, Beinn a'Chlachair had been a bit challenging. He did not elaborate on that, but I assume that he meant in terms of both navigation and distance. He was clutching a map in his hand and I took him to be an old school map and compass walker. I always carry a map and compass, but they spend most of the time in my backpack. Of course, that was not always the case.
I know that it is only a 5km bike ride back to the road, but I was glad to be back at my tent. There was time to pack up, bike out tot he road and still arrive home in time for an early night in a real bed, but I wanted another night in my tent, pitched in a place that may soon be lost forever - or until the dam crumbles and it appears on an episode of Abandoned Engineering.
With it raining on and off, I cooked from within my tent with my stove outside. It is extremely rare for me to place a stove within a tent. I think that the last time I did so, I unclipped the inner to create more space. I enjoyed a sachet of Costa coffee and a Japanese pot noodle with a miso sauce to which I added a small tin of tuna. After this, I took a sleep until around 2100, when I got up for a second pot noodle and hot chocolate.
The rain had cleared so I went over to the bridge. Having finished the noodles, I placed my long titanium spork into the pot - you know - one of those long handled ones that are so good for eating freeze-dried meals straight out of the bag. Thankfully, the spork did not fall down between the gaps in the planks of the bridge. But did I learn from this? Sure enough, I place the sport flat on the planks, but when minutes later as I finished my hot chocolate, I knocked the pot again (or was it blown over?), it in turn knocked the spork which disappeared between the gaps in the bridge and shortly afterward followed by a "plop"!
The converged Allt Coire a' Chlachair and Allt Coire Pitridh is deep and slow at this point with sediments at the bottom. My first thought was to just buy a new one, but when I saw it lying at the bottom of the burn, I thought "I can get that!". After all, due to the high energy demand of the Kroll Process and it being more difficult to manufacture things out of titanium, the spork was not cheap! It meant stripping off completely at the risk of being attacked by midges and the depth of the water meant exposing my nether regions to any nibbling fish! The bottom was mostly sandy and not too soft. I was in and the water was not too cold, It spotted the spork like a heron spotting a fish and I struck downwards with my arm. I had to feel around a bit, but soon got it. I had no towel, so brushed off most of the water with my hand before drying myself off further with my not very absorbent "Smelly Helly" base layer.
The rain had cleared so I went over to the bridge. Having finished the noodles, I placed my long titanium spork into the pot - you know - one of those long handled ones that are so good for eating freeze-dried meals straight out of the bag. Thankfully, the spork did not fall down between the gaps in the planks of the bridge. But did I learn from this? Sure enough, I place the sport flat on the planks, but when minutes later as I finished my hot chocolate, I knocked the pot again (or was it blown over?), it in turn knocked the spork which disappeared between the gaps in the bridge and shortly afterward followed by a "plop"!
The converged Allt Coire a' Chlachair and Allt Coire Pitridh is deep and slow at this point with sediments at the bottom. My first thought was to just buy a new one, but when I saw it lying at the bottom of the burn, I thought "I can get that!". After all, due to the high energy demand of the Kroll Process and it being more difficult to manufacture things out of titanium, the spork was not cheap! It meant stripping off completely at the risk of being attacked by midges and the depth of the water meant exposing my nether regions to any nibbling fish! The bottom was mostly sandy and not too soft. I was in and the water was not too cold, It spotted the spork like a heron spotting a fish and I struck downwards with my arm. I had to feel around a bit, but soon got it. I had no towel, so brushed off most of the water with my hand before drying myself off further with my not very absorbent "Smelly Helly" base layer.
Once dressed, I only felt mildly damp. I felt a little refreshed and pleased to have my spork!
I pottered about for a bit as I knew that it was the best way to dry off, before retiring back to my sleeping bag.
I woke up at around 0200. I needed a pee. In my experience, the worst times for midges is dawn and dusk and they tend to be less active when it is completely dark. However, Scotland in the summer is where dawn meets dusk and the midges are doubled. I had not realised in the poor light, as to how many midges there were and how many I transported back into my tent. I started to itch! Throughout the best part of the next hour, I was scratching myself, until I eventually got off to sleep. When I woke, my pasty legs were covered in pink blotches.
The air was still outside and like the British at Rorke's Drift, the enemy had me surrounded! Packing away my tent was going to be a midgerable time!
I woke up at around 0200. I needed a pee. In my experience, the worst times for midges is dawn and dusk and they tend to be less active when it is completely dark. However, Scotland in the summer is where dawn meets dusk and the midges are doubled. I had not realised in the poor light, as to how many midges there were and how many I transported back into my tent. I started to itch! Throughout the best part of the next hour, I was scratching myself, until I eventually got off to sleep. When I woke, my pasty legs were covered in pink blotches.
The air was still outside and like the British at Rorke's Drift, the enemy had me surrounded! Packing away my tent was going to be a midgerable time!