aving reached the end of Olle 21, like Forest Gump reaching the ocean, I turned round and went back the other way. The routes are well marked with the forward routes marked in blue and the reverse in orange.
Olle 21 [reverse] - 6 April 2026
This was an out and back with the return route taking a lot longer, partly as I walked slower but also due to a couple of cafe stops. The outward walk can be viewed here. I did have lunch and a beer before heading back up the oreum called Jimibong. This is only 163 metres but I still stopped to catch my breath a number of times, though never stopping for more than 2-3 minutes. The hills are getting harder and I wonder how I will get on ascending pathless hillsides, with overnight gear, in the summer. I suppose it will just take me a little bit longer. I am planning a couple of summit camps. The extra weight makes it harder, but the routes are split between two days.
The lasses on the electric scooters were good enough to smile and wave. I caught them up later and the two girls sharing the scooter were no longer smiling. They had come off and both had bloodied knees. I looked in my backpack. I carry a very limited range of first aid items. I offered them some Nurofen and they looked horrified at the idea of me handing them drugs. They declined the blister plasters - probably a good thing as they would have been difficult to remove, but they happily accepted the pack of wet wipes.
The thing about walking a route in reverse is that you see things that you did not notice while walking in the other direction. I had photographed a mural while walking in the forward direction but had not noticed the ones hidden around the corner. I think the the building may have been some sort of haenyeo base. The haenyeo are a common theme for both murals and statues in the area, though carrot farming also features prominently in these parts.
While the outward route took 2 hours and 40 minutes, the return took 3 hours and 50 minutes resulting in a total time of 6 hours and 10 minutes not including lunch.
The lasses on the electric scooters were good enough to smile and wave. I caught them up later and the two girls sharing the scooter were no longer smiling. They had come off and both had bloodied knees. I looked in my backpack. I carry a very limited range of first aid items. I offered them some Nurofen and they looked horrified at the idea of me handing them drugs. They declined the blister plasters - probably a good thing as they would have been difficult to remove, but they happily accepted the pack of wet wipes.
The thing about walking a route in reverse is that you see things that you did not notice while walking in the other direction. I had photographed a mural while walking in the forward direction but had not noticed the ones hidden around the corner. I think the the building may have been some sort of haenyeo base. The haenyeo are a common theme for both murals and statues in the area, though carrot farming also features prominently in these parts.
While the outward route took 2 hours and 40 minutes, the return took 3 hours and 50 minutes resulting in a total time of 6 hours and 10 minutes not including lunch.
Olle 20 [reverse] - 7 April 2026
So I had walked this in the forward direction just two days before. That is OK. Repeating a route, one sees different things and the photographs can be quite different. Those parts that I had visited two days earlier during the afternoon were now illuminated by the morning sun and vice versa. Also, it always just great to be out and getting some exercise. I certainly did not enjoy the route any the less.
I saw several groups of women wearing orange vests. I wondered if they were waiting to be picked up and taken to harvest the white radish. I assume that the masks are to protect their skin from the sun or because of pollution being blown over from China? I saw few haenyeo, so I was thinking that maybe they help out with the harvest on land as needs dictate. Certainly, women form a very important part of the labour force. It may seem inappropriate to our western minds that the women seem to do most of the work. I think that historically this stems from the fact that women harvested the food while the men fought the wars. Choosing between hard labour and being cut to pieces, I think I would choose the former! Of course that does not justify the situation today, where the men seem to have a much easier life.
The butterfly is a holly blue. It seems that these do not overwinter as adults. Copied and pasted rom Google AI:
"Holly Blues actually spend the winter as pupae (chrysalises).
The butterfly you saw in April is fresh—it likely just emerged from its chrysalis a few days before you took the photo.
How Their Winter Works
"Holly Blues actually spend the winter as pupae (chrysalises).
The butterfly you saw in April is fresh—it likely just emerged from its chrysalis a few days before you took the photo.
How Their Winter Works
- The Overwintering Stage: The final generation of caterpillars from the previous year (which fed on Ivy in late summer/autumn) crawled down into the leaf litter or onto stems to pupate. They stayed in that dormant pupal state for about six months throughout the winter.
- The Spring Awakening: As the weather warms up in March and April, the transformation inside the chrysalis completes, and the adult butterfly emerges. This is why they are often the very first "blue" butterflies on the wing each year.
- Short Lifespan: Once they emerge as butterflies, they only live for a few weeks to mate and lay the next generation of eggs on the flower buds of the holly that is so abundant on Jeju."
The picture of the bird is not very good but it forms a part of my story. It also illustrates that walking the same route is always going to be different as you see different things. It is a little ringed plover (Thinornis dubius). There were, in fact, a pair of them.
The woman is in a field of spring onions. I noticed that these had grown buds. Spring onions (and bulb onions) are biennial plants, meaning they usually grow in their first year and flower in the second. While flowering in the first year is not typical, it can happen if the plants experience temperature fluctuations (cold snap followed by warmth), causing them to "bolt" and flower prematurely. I assume that is what has happened this year, as they all look like this across the island.
I wanted to check this out. What is a shamanism cafe. There were a couple of people sat outside and they seemed surprised by my approaching the cafe. The man crossed his arms to indicate that they were closed, so I still do not know!
Just a stone's throw away was a bakery, that offered some savoury options. It was bang on 11:00 and this was just what I needed.
Just a stone's throw away was a bakery, that offered some savoury options. It was bang on 11:00 and this was just what I needed.
Jeju Black Pork croissant with hazelnut choco latte. Due to the removal of a tooth and stitches in my mouth [the dentist cut the gum to remove the tartar below the gum-line] I did not want to have to bite into it but use a knife and fork. In true Korean fashion, she gave me a pair of scissors, which are often given in place of a knife.
The route never strays far from the coastline and I eventually reached one of my favourite cafes, Delmoondo, for an iced coffee topped with ice cream.
I knew that I was almost at the end of the trail and my overnight accommodation. I was aware that there were limited options for dinner were limited. I considered a burger place that was within walking distance, but I decided to go for a Korean cuisine place just around the corner. There was no menu as such, not even in Korean, but using Google translate, I found that fish was on the menu. I informed her that I do not like eating very bony fish. She said that it was mackerel. This is my absolutely favourite fish. Partly because it brings back fond memories of mackerel fishing with my father while camping at Mwnt in Wales (long before the official campsite and became so busy and commercialised). I did not find out until decades later that my father did not really like taking me fishing as he was afraid that I would fall from the rocks into the sea and drown. I was totally oblivious to that at the time. I wanted to go fishing every day!
I also simply like the taste of mackerel and the fact that you can just pull the flesh from the bone and I am not in fear of choking. Furthermore, mackerel is exceptionally good for you and considered a nutritional powerhouse. It is packed with omega-3 fatty acids, high-quality protein, and vitamins B12 and D, which boost heart, brain, and immune health. I gather it is also relatively low in mercury, when compared to some larger oily fish where there is greater biomagnification.
I also simply like the taste of mackerel and the fact that you can just pull the flesh from the bone and I am not in fear of choking. Furthermore, mackerel is exceptionally good for you and considered a nutritional powerhouse. It is packed with omega-3 fatty acids, high-quality protein, and vitamins B12 and D, which boost heart, brain, and immune health. I gather it is also relatively low in mercury, when compared to some larger oily fish where there is greater biomagnification.
My room for the night. The hostess had suggested upgrading to a room with a bed, but this was absolutely perfect and very luxurious compared to a tent. It cost 69000 Won which is about £34. I reckon that is excellent value!
The passing of Suh Myung-sook
While happily striding along and snapping away with my camera, I was totally unaware of the passing of Suh Myung-sook, who was the founder of the Jeju Olle trails. After a career in political journalism, Suh had returned to her birthplace and inspired by her walking of the Camino de Compostela, she started to develop the Jeju Olle Trails with Route 1 opening in 2007.
I was very privileged to meet Suh at the Olle office in Seogwipo. Her enthusiasm and energy were very apparent. Seeing others enjoying the trails clearly brought her great pleasure, especially with regards to those that were from distant lands.
The photograph below was taken during September 2024, with myself centre and Suh to my left.
I was very privileged to meet Suh at the Olle office in Seogwipo. Her enthusiasm and energy were very apparent. Seeing others enjoying the trails clearly brought her great pleasure, especially with regards to those that were from distant lands.
The photograph below was taken during September 2024, with myself centre and Suh to my left.
Olle 19 [ reverse] - 8 April 2026
The overnight accommodation had not included breakfast, so after a coffee and a cereal bar, I headed off. I think it was around 0730, so a nice, early start. I initially wandered off the route to explore around the harbour before picking up the orange arrows and Olle ribbons.
You don't see much wheat growing in Korea. Their main source of carbohydrates is obviously rice.
The lizard is probably Mountain Grass Lizard Takydromus wolteri. There were two of them. Despite using a macro lens, I was a bit disappointed with the results. The images were not very sharp. Maybe this is down to camouflage resulting in a lack of contrast. The photos were OK but not great.
The lizard is probably Mountain Grass Lizard Takydromus wolteri. There were two of them. Despite using a macro lens, I was a bit disappointed with the results. The images were not very sharp. Maybe this is down to camouflage resulting in a lack of contrast. The photos were OK but not great.
The photograph below is either Papilio xuthus (Asian Swallowtail) or Papilio machaon (Old World Swallowtail). Google would not believe that it is my photograph. They kept on telling me that it was a stock photograph, probably taken in Norfolk! I keep on asserting that it was mine and taken in Korea. They still say it is unlikely that it was taken by me on Jeju Island!
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The route continues over Seoubong and down to Hamdeok. The route does not actually go up to the top of the oreum. In the forward route, I took a slight detour to the top, but I did not bother on this occasion. I felt keen to finish early and head back home.
It is common to see large fish in the harbours on Jeju. I do not know the species. The "aeroplane" had a suitcase inside of it. I have seen enough TV crime drama to think one thing. There were no bad smells and I did not investigate the contents.
The route ends near to the Hyeonjusa Temple and the Jocheon Manse Dongsan which is a memorial marking the site of a key location in the Jomanse (or March 1) Movement, a key anti-Japanese uprising in Jeju. The March First Movement was a series of protests against Japanese colonial rule that was held throughout Korea beginning on March 1, 1919. Protests were largely concentrated in March and April of that year.
