1 March 2025

I had a four day long weekend and although the forecast was for rain every day, I was determined to get out and make something of my days off. It was going to take about 75 minutes to arrive at the start and with a slightly longer taxi ride on the way back, cost about £80. This was justifiable on the basis of doing a two day hike with an overnight in a guesthouse (another £35). I certainly did not want to sit at home for the four days. 

As can just be made out in the photograph of the start stamp pony, it was raining quite heavily on my arrival. For the first time ever, I was carrying my EuroSchirm hands-free trekking umbrella! I have never thought of using one in Scotland, but I have walked in very warm weather on Jeju and been caught in a thunderstorm. If rain is forecast without it being too windy, it definitely has its place. It also has the potential to double up as a parasol in hot sunny weather. Being hands free means that I can still use my camera. On day one I used it in conjunction with a waterproof jacket but I was over-heating, even in a high of just 18°C. It is not something that I will take with me on every walk but it definitely has its place. I remember Nicholas Crane commenting on the virtues of carrying an umbrella in an episode of Wilderness Walks. I seem to remember that he walked thought pyrenees with one. I could see myself using one in Scotland if the forecast is for rain but still conditions, and also good if walking along forestry tracks where the trees offers protection from the wind. Of course it is not weightless so one needs to consider the likelihood of using it. EuroSchirm also produce a telescopic UV protection version with a black underside and a silver outer and I think that might make a real difference on hot, windless days.

A little way further on, I saw something else that seemed like a great idea! I have not bought a car on Jeju. Sometimes I use my bike, which I brought over with me from Kazakhstan, but for my less local walks, one of these would be as much as I need! I believe it is a Chinese built Yinjian battery powered tricycle. I am on an island a little bit larger in area than the Isle of Skye and the roads are mostly very good. I believe they sell for around £3000. I cannot find out much regarding the specifications such as the range and I do not know if I could church it where I live. I suppose it seemed particularly appealing in the rain! I rather like the way the rain has been captured in this photograph. To be honest, I did not think the the rain was very heavy, but maybe that is down to my umbrella.

I certainly liked the sound of the rain on the umbrella. It reminded me of the many happy hours I have spent camping. My family holidays were camping holidays, even from infancy, and I find something very comforting about the sound of rain on taut fabric. I know that many people do not like camping in the rain, but I find it vey soporific, especially when warm and snug in a down sleeping bag. So, even though I was not in a tent, through association, the sound brought me happiness.

The rain did not last very long and some patches of blue sky appeared - at least, for a while.

The Tourism is important to Jeju and they do everything they can to protect their beaches. Out of season, they cover them in sheets to try and stop the sand from blowing away. It is not 100% effective but I am sure that it makes a difference and at the same time means less sand blowing into people's homes etc. 

The finishing stamp has the image of a windmill and it is clear why! About 18 per cent of Jeju's energy comes from renewables. There are solar farms, windmills and a power station that runs on biofuel. Note that the rain clouds were reforming!

The route passes a lot of "coffee and dessert" places and as I had been walking for a while and breakfast seemed a long time ago, I headed into one for a coffee and cinnamon bun. This also got me out of the rain for a while. 

It struck me how light and spacious the place was. In the UK, everything would b being a counter, but here, it was a case of serve yourself and take it to the counter. It was certainly a nice place to spend 10-20 minutes while the worst of the rain passed. 

Then back outside and the umbrella was back up, but not for long as the clouds parted for some brighter weather for a while.

I was curious about this door. I think it was a home, but I was not sure. I assume that the shovel acted as a door handle. Maybe it was just a big coal cellar?

By the time I reached Woljeong-ri beach, the weather was fine and the young people were out taking selfies on the beach. There was an old lady cooking squid while an old man hung them out to dry. I was curious what it might taste line. Of course, I have eaten squid, but not seen it being cooked like steak on a barbeque.

Then on to Haengwon-pogu. Pogu is the Korean word for port.

As I left the coast and headed towards jwagwa yeondae smoke tower (presumably some sort of beacon?), the rain became increasingly heavy. When walking along a narrow path with overhanging vegetation, I took my umbrella down, but by the time I reached the tower it was up. I had taken my waterproof off much earlier and I did not really fancy putting it back on. My umbrella kept off the worst of the rain. Obviously, my trousers were getting a little wet but they would be with a rain shell. I have an old pair of over trousers with me on Jeju but I have never bothered carrying them.

The route quickly returns to the coastal road. I had passed a number of fields of carrots. It seems to be a common crop in the area. I have not noticed carrots being grown elsewhere on the island. I have seen mostly cabbage, beetroot, onions and radish.  This painting looked quite new as none of the paint had crumbled away and the colours seemed vibrant. The people I later saw harvesting carrots in the rain did not appear as happy as these folk.

The rain continued all the way to the end, though it had become more of a drizzle. The route ends opposite the Haenyeo Museum, which pays tribute to the hard lives of the local female divers, who harvest food from the sea bed. I generally do not enjoy museums (unless they have a cafe!), but the entrance fee was not very much. There was an 8 minute video in English and things illustrating the traditional way of life of these remarkable women.

There is also a memorial to commemorate a haenyeo led uprising against Japanese rule, holding jonggae homi (hoes used to collect seaweed) and bitchang(sickles used to collect abalone). This resulted in some of them, Kim Ok-nyeon, Bu Chun-hwa, and Bu Deok-nyang, being sent to prison.

I had in fact walked past my accommodation for the night, so I had to retrace my steps for about a kilometre, stopping at a cafe on the way. I would then return the next morning for Olle 21.

The route took me around 4 hours 45 minutes, including stopping at the cafe, slightly within the 5-6 hour given in the Jeju Olle Passport.