Above: Hamden Beach
21-22 March 2026
It had been four weeks since my previous outing. The forecast was fine, especially for the Saturday, with little wind overnight and the possibility of some Ian later on the Sunday. With the night expected to be around 10°C, I left my warmer jacket and down trousers at home. I have been meaning to weigh my pack for some time. With food but without water, it was about 9.5kg or 21lb. When I first went hiking with a 3.6kg Caravan Keb tent, Karrimor Jaguar rucksack and Trangia, I carried about 14.5kg or 32lb. That is a significant difference. Frankly, at my age, around the 10kg mark is enough.
This is particularly important at the moment as I am being treated for a frozen shoulder or adhesive capsulitis. I think that this resulted from playing volleyball, especially serving.
There were other people at the start, stamping their Olle passports. Some people scan the QR code and log their completions on their phones. I collect the stamps.
The route out of Jeju City passes a number of fine murals depicting the local traditions and way of life.
The route goes up Byeldobong with fine views across Jeju Port with its ferries and container ships. There is a recreational area that includes pickleball courts that are about the same dimensions as a badminton court. The players use a paddle and a perforated plastic ball. The young woman spotted me with my camera and was keen to smile and pose for me.
Descending the route down Byeldobong leads to a harbour and later across a small river using slabby rocks as stepping stones.
I came across a small cart where fish had been laid out to dry. I am not sure if I fancy this fish after a fly has vomited over it and laid its eggs in it!
Below:
Hwagu-pogu
Steps up tos a Yeonday [별도연대]. A Yeondae refers to a means of communication that used torches and smoke to transmit urgent political and military news.
Did this business get the words in the name the wrong way round?
I often try panning with passing cyclists and bikers, never with perfect results. This would have benefited from a slower shutter speed than 1/100 second. Dropping down from f/5.6 to f/8 would have given a shutter speed between 1/30th and 1/60th which is probably about right for this type of photography.
The two ladies seemed to have created some sort of Buddhist shrine and the one on the left was hitting some sort of instrument that I heard from far away. As I approached them, I saw a snake. I do not know the species. It was about a metre long and dark olive-brown. I could not get a photograph of it amongst the vegetation.
Hwagu-pogu
Steps up tos a Yeonday [별도연대]. A Yeondae refers to a means of communication that used torches and smoke to transmit urgent political and military news.
Did this business get the words in the name the wrong way round?
I often try panning with passing cyclists and bikers, never with perfect results. This would have benefited from a slower shutter speed than 1/100 second. Dropping down from f/5.6 to f/8 would have given a shutter speed between 1/30th and 1/60th which is probably about right for this type of photography.
The two ladies seemed to have created some sort of Buddhist shrine and the one on the left was hitting some sort of instrument that I heard from far away. As I approached them, I saw a snake. I do not know the species. It was about a metre long and dark olive-brown. I could not get a photograph of it amongst the vegetation.
Time for lunch....
"Eggs in Hell". This can be very spicy. This was just perfect for my palate and much needed!
More murals
I had a bit of a problem with this photograph. There was tto much glare off the upper panel at the rear of the boat. I could have done with a polariser. Converting the picture to monochrome makes this less obvious and I feel that it works relatively well in monochrome.
Below:
Yeonbukjeong Pavillion
Anti-Japanese memorial
Hyeonjisa Temple
I think some kind of wild mustard
Tesla Cybertruck
Hamdeok
Yeonbukjeong Pavillion
Anti-Japanese memorial
Hyeonjisa Temple
I think some kind of wild mustard
Tesla Cybertruck
Hamdeok
I was not sure if I should camp here. There is a place further down that is tucked away, but it was not as clean, so I turned back to this spot. My night photos of the tent are sharper than my previous effors as there was barely any breese at all.
I woke up a couple of times, feeling just a little bit cold, though I was not shivering. I packed up and went to Starbucks for breakfast.
After photographing the "fishermen" opposite Starbucks, I headed up and over Seosubong.
This photograph is slightly out of sequence. Throughout my walking, I am doing reconnaissance for possible future camping locations. A slight detour from Olle 19 takes you up to the top of Seosubong Peak. There are burial sites but there is a nice area behind the benches that shoud not seem disrespectful of the location, especially as a lolo camper. I am not afraid of ghosts. I just see it as an opportunity to become aquainted before my time arrives to join the spirits.
With an early start and having already done 5km of the 19km route [Olle 19] the previous day, I was in no great hurry. I was expecting to complete the route by early afternoon. Therefore I stopped at a cafe. I forget the name of this desert, but it gave me an energy boost and the accompanying lemonade restored my water balance.
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I then caught up three Koreans, one of which spoke English. I did a lot of bletherin for the rest of the route. He had given up his job to do the Camino de Santiago and along with his wife, was training for the Pacific Crest Trail.
Walking with three others meant an increase in pace. I paid less attention to my surroundings and, therefore, very few photographs. I arrived at the end of route 19 at 13:40. There are no cafes at the end, so after finishing off the strawberry Dr Pepper in my drinks bottle, I ordered a taxi and headed home.
